Germany-based BB Engineering GmbH (BBE) has joined the bioPEtex research project to help develop textiles made using 100-percent biobased polyethylene (PE). BBE is contributing its spinning and texturizing expertise and developing the texturing process for bioPEtex on an industrial scale. The first promising results are already available — opening up new opportunities for sustainable and economically attractive applications in the textile industry.
For years, the global man-made fiber market has been dominated by polyethylene terephthalate (PET), a technically mature, versatile, and cost-effective polymer for textile applications. However, despite its advantages in terms of processability, strength, and economic availability, PET has come under scrutiny due to its dependence on fossil raw materials, high carbon dioxide emissions along the value chain, and challenges in recycling PET products.
Currently, PET cannot be produced on an industrial scale in a 100-percent biobased manner. Clothing made entirely from other biopolymers exists only in studies, as it is too expensive for commercial production. In this context, bioPEtex is investigating biobased PE, a polymer that has previously been considered unsuitable for man-made fiber production because of its material properties. However, biobased PE is inexpensive to procure and environmentally friendly, making it an attractive candidate for further development in the textile industry.
BBE is one of the industrial partners working with RWTH Aachen University in Germany on the bioPEtex project. BBE is contributing its expertise to the bioPEtex project including consulting support for the spinning process, as well as developing the crucial texturizing step, which has a significant influence on the subsequent performance of the developed fibers.
PE And Its Role In The Chemical Fiber Industry
PE is one of the most commonly produced polymers worldwide. Particularly durable, hydrophobic, lightweight and chemically stable, it is used not only in its main area of application — the packaging industry — but also in various other areas such as building materials and consumer goods. However, PE has so far been almost absent in textile fiber production, mainly due to processing challenges. PE crystallizes at low temperatures and offers a narrow temperature window for spinning and texturing. In addition, a low polarity makes it difficult to dye.
Today, PE is used exclusively as a functional component in composites, geosynthetics, or special high-performance fibers — in the form of ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene — but seldom in traditional clothing or home textile segments. Yet the material structure also offers properties that are highly attractive for certain textile applications including:
- very low density resulting in extremely lightweight fibers;
- excellent chemical resistance;
- very good dimensional stability and abrasion resistance;
- potentially good recyclability due to clear polymer structure; and
- water-repellence and quick dry properties along with a cool feel.
The issue of difficult dyeability could be resolved by using dope dyeing.
As a result, PE could become relevant for applications where lightweight construction, hydrophobicity, robust performance, and recyclability are required, for example, in sports textiles, outdoor products, technical textiles or hygienic disposable products.
Biobased PE — Economic And Ecological Potential For The Textile Industry
Unlike PET, biobased PE is chemically identical to its fossil-based counterpart: both materials are completely identical in terms of structure and properties. The only difference lies in the origin of the monomers used. Biobased PE is usually produced from fermented sugar from sugar cane, or starch from corn.
Compared to fossil-based PE, it has a significantly better carbon footprint and opens up the possibility of a completely biobased textile recycling cycle without any loss of quality. Since the low melting point reduces the energy required for processing and bioPE is widely available globally, energy and material costs are potentially lower. The textile industry can benefit from the established raw material flows of the packaging and plastics industries. In addition, the introduction of PE fibers enables the development of new, highly specialized product segments and presents additional differentiation opportunities for manufacturers through sustainable material alternatives.
Developing The PE Texturizing Process
Before PE can be used on an industrial scale as a material for the man-made fiber industry, it must first be systematically researched and tested. The texturizing process is crucial, as this step defines the subsequent haptic, functional and mechanical properties of a fiber. The challenge lies in modifying PE under the novel process conditions in such a way that it becomes compatible with established textile applications.
Overall, the project comprises several steps:
- Material development: Development and production of spinnable bioPE compounds by TECNARO containing biobased color pigments.
- Process optimization: Melt spinning and false twist texturing processes, which are being scaled up for industrial use at the Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University and at BBE.
- Textile production: FALKE, another industrial partner, is conducting initial knitting trials to validate the yarn and produce T-shirts.
The results so far show promising progress: the bioPE yarns have suitable mechanical properties and are comfortable to wear imparting a cooling effect, which is desirable in sportswear. At the same time, a design-for-recycling approach is being pursued in order to efficiently recycle the textiles at the end of the life cycle.
For more information e-mail Pia Kürten at [email protected] or visit bbeng.de.
